Today we start the section of the Queen Charlotte Track affectionately known as “the big day”. We are walking from Punga Cove, the south eastern side of Endeavour Inlet to Portage Bay, a distance of 23 kms. Unfortunately I took the wrong turn just after leaving Punga Cove which added another very steep climb and a further 2 kms to what was already going to be a challenging walk. Which it was!!! We walk up very steep tracks to eventually get to Kenepuru Saddle where we walk along a ridge line between Queen Charlotte and Kenepuru Sounds with magnificent views out to both Sounds. We follow the ridge for most of the day with many steep up and down sections to traverse. We pass the iconic Eatwell’s Lookout after about 2 hours in, named after track stalwart Rod Eatwell and located on his land. We have a pass with us which allows to pass through a number of private properties today. Our first snack stop is the Bay of Many Coves Shelter, positioned atop a ridge and overlooking the Bay of Many Coves and Snake Point. We also pass through areas where we get views of Kenepuru Sound and where we can see the black longlines of mussel farms in the water.
From the Bay of Many Coves Shelter, the track follows the ridge line, dropping over to the sheltered east side into lush native bush then the more exposed western side before climbing again to the Black Rock Shelter. From here you can see back to Picton. From here we are heading to our final stop, Portage Bay, and it can’t come soon enough! There is a slight uphill section to begin on the final leg once past Black Rock followed by a steady decline into Portage Bay. This is the only section of the track where there are large beds of kidney ferns on the right hand side.
There was to be a Day 4 walk but as it poured with rain all through the night and as I had blisters and a cut on my toe, I decided to spend a leisurely day with Linley and to head back to Picton. From Picton we picked up the car and drove back to Christchurch.
I was sorry to not have completed the track but there will be another time I’m sure.